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Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Philippine Adventure: Part Three

Day 5: Tuesday, June 23
I forgot to add a few pictures from Monday evening. I finally got to try durian; I only did it for Brooke! She challenged me to try it, and yes, it's as horrible as my face makes it look. It's disgustingly sweet, with a chemically-Pepto-Bismol smell. Even without the bad smell, I don't think I would have liked it. Not when there are yummy fruits like mangoes and bananas to eat.

There was a beautiful sunset that night, too. This was taken standing out on the back balcony of the library.Tuesday morning we woke up early to catch a ferry in Cagayan at 8:00. It's about an hour ride down the mountain, so we left the library at 6:30. One of the most heartbreaking things I saw on our trip was at the ferry terminal in Cagayan. Two little boys, about 4 and 5 years old, were in a small out-rigger canoe begging for coins. They wanted us to throw the coins into the water so they could dive for them. This is how they help earn money for their family. It made me so grateful that my sweet babies have never had to do anything like this. We threw our most valuable coins to them and cheered them on; they would hold up the coin when they surfaced to show us they had reached it. It broke my heart when they came up empty handed.

When we finally ran out of coins, I wished there had been a change machine so I could get more. Here they are counting their earnings: I hope it was a profitable day for them.

After a two hour, rough and rocky due to a storm, ferry ride, and a 45 minute van ride, we made it to Paras Beach Resort. I finally got to take a hot shower. The Dumotan's have a shower, but no hot water. I hadn't yet worked up the courage to take a cold shower, so I waited two days until I knew we'd have hot water. We spent the afternoon touring the Island. Our van tour took us to five tourist sights. The first stop was the "Old Volcano" and Stations of the Cross. It felt good to get out and walk a bit. The Stations of the Cross are life-size statues depicting Christ's journey to the Cross.

At about the 4th station, we started noticing damage from a rock slide, and by the 8th, the trail was impassable, so we had to turn around and go back. I hope they are able to repair the stautes soon. I really enjoyed the "hike" up the volcano, looking for the next station, surrounded by the lush greenery. We even heard monkeys calling in the distance.

Our next stop was the Sunken Cemetary, an old cemetary by the shore that collapsed and sunk under water during the 1871 volcano eruption of Mount Hibok-Hibok. Apparently it's a really cool place to snorkle, but we weren't equipped. The sand on the beach is black because it's crushed volcanic rock.

Right down the road from the cemetary is the Gui-ob Church ruins, also destroyed during the 1871 eruption. The stone walls had coral mixed into them.
The next stop was Katibawasan Falls, a "beautiful, clear stream of water cascading 70 meters into a rock pool surrounded by ground orchids, wild ferns, trees and boulders." (quoting from our tour map) Being from somewhere so green, I loved being surrounded by the lush plant life. It made me a little less homesick, I think. It was still raining, too, so it felt even more like home! Except for the high humidity.
Our final stop on the Camiguin Island tour was Hibok-Hibok Hot Springs. This was my favorite stop. I could have stayed here for several more hours, but it was getting late and we were getting hungry. The water was so warm and relaxing, and it didn't even smell like sulfur.
Stephanie and I sat and soaked, and reminisced about her time as a missionary on Bainbridge Island. I was pregnant with Ben and on bed-rest when she and Sister Hoi served in our ward. They would come a visit me to keep me company. I never thought then that seven years later I'd be sitting in a hot-spring in the Philippines with her!

When we got back to the resort, we headed out to J & A Fishpen for dinner. A storm was coming on, and we were warned that there was a typhoon alert. But we were HUNGRY, so we risked riding in a multi-cab for almost an hour and arrived at the restaurant right before they closed. The owner was very gracious and let us order. We ate so much yummy seafood!
I didn't get pictures of it all, but my favorite was the chili crab. During our feast, the power went out and it was pitch black. The tables are on floating docks out over the water, so we were surrounded by blackness, rain pounding on the tin roof, and water lapping underneath us. Fortunately the power went back on after about 5 minutes. We quickly finished our meal and headed back to the resort, where the power went off and on all night long.
Day 6: Wednesday, June 24
The typhoon had passed in the night and we woke up to a beautiful, clear day. I love how the storms clear the air. We spent the morning at White Island, a sand bar right off the coast of Camiguin. It was easily one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Picture glistening white sand, clear turquoise water, cloudless blue sky, with lush green mountains in the background.
Kylie, Stephanie and Barb snorkeled; I tried it, but it was a little to wavy for me and I kept getting salt water into my snorkel and mask. Carlyn told me to wait until the next day at Duka Bay where the water was calmer. I beach combed instead and found lots of tiny, beautiful shells and coral. We were there for about two hours when the tide started coming in and eating away at the sand, so we headed back.

That afternoon, we left beautiful Camiguin Island and headed back to Mindanao. We took a different ferry this time, an open air ferry, which was wonderful. It helped that the storm had passed and the ferry was slower so it wasn't as rocky. While we were waiting for the ferry to disembark, boys started jumping into the water and climing aboard the ferry. Carlyn told us it was a water festival day, so everyone was out enjoying the water. The boys would climb up the rope and onto the outer railings of the ferry.

It started out with little boys, but once they saw Kylie, the teenagers and men started flocking over.
They reached through the railings, trying to get her to shake hands with them, and when she finally did, they cheered. She introduced herself, and from then on all we heard was"Kylie! Watch me, Kylie!" as they jumped off the boat doing flips, trying to impress her. Carlyn had a big bag of coins, and she offered it to them if they would all jump off together in a salute to Kylie. They were only too happy to oblige, and when the ferry pulled out, they all climbed onto the top. We got farther and farther away from shore, and I started to get worried that we were too far for them to swim back safely. What do I know?

They jumped off one by one, yelling "Kylie!" as they jumped. Kylie was beet red, but I think she enjoyed the attention! The picture above shows how far they had to swim.
When we made it back to Mindanoa, we rode on these mini-taxis. I've lost track of how many different types of transportation we used on this trip! We were warned that because there was a water festival, we might get sprayed with water. All along our way, we were so excited to possibly have a way to cool down and were so disappointed when no one even tried to spray us!

These friendly kids wanted to talk to us, though, when we were stopped in traffic for another road construction project.
We arrived at Duka Bay (below) that afternoon, took a nice walk along the beach, and went to bed early so we could wake up early and go snorkeling and SCUBA diving.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Philippine Adventure: Part Two

Day 4: Monday, June 22
Waking up to clear skies and a cool breeze really lifted my spirits. The heat gets so oppressive during the afternoon and finally breaks into pouring rain. The rain cleanses everything and lets the new day start out fresh, then the heat begins to build as the sun comes up over the horizon and the process repeats. The day starts early, about 5:00 AM when the sun comes up. It ends early, too. We were in bed by 9:00 most nights, often earlier. Partly because there's not really much going on after the sun goes down at 7:00 PM, but mostly because we were exhausted after waking up early and being on the go all day.

Barbara, Stephanie, Kylie and I walked into the market Monday morning. It's just a block away from the library.

Who knew there were so many kids of rice? And this is just a small stall. There were others with a much bigger selection.

I was a little suspicious of buying meat here. Flies everywhere...

You can buy any part of the animal.

I love the bananas. They're smaller and sweeter than ours, but not mushy.

The fried bananas are delicious as well. They are dipped in a sweet batter and fried in oil. We got them hot out of the frier. Yum!

Stinky dried fish, not so yum! It's hard to see, but they're whole, heads, tails, scales and all, and people eat the whole thing. Not me, though.

Most people were very friendly. We stopped to talk to this family; the woman on the left is grandma to the three kids. I think her son is behind. Everyone stared at us, but if we smiled and waved, they would smile back. It felt very odd to be the only white people walking around.

Noodles! These were yummy, too. Pancit Canton, I believe.

Jeepneys waiting for their routes to begin. Each one has their route painted on the side so you know which one to take, but it was still very confusing to me!

When we returned from the market, we met Carlyn's neighbors, one of her sets of godparents. (She has 18 all together!) Their son, Paxon, climbed a coconut tree for us and harvested several young coconuts. Kylie thought it looked pretty easy, especially since there are foothold cut into the trunk, so she gave it a try. She made it about four feet, and gave up. She determined she would walk barefoot the rest of the trip to toughen up her feet so she could try again before we went home. I vetoed that idea!

These roosters are Carlyn's neighbor's. I thought it was interesting how they each have their own roost...maybe that's why they're called roosters...

Later in the afternoon, when it was HOT, we went to a mountain-spring-fed swimming pool.(Owned by Carlyn's cousin, of course. She's related to everyone!) We rode up the mountain in a multi-cab, just like a jeepney, but hired for specific trips instead of on an established route.

The cool water was so refreshing.

Monday evening we went to a "Miss Gay" pagent. No pictures, sorry! It certainly was eye-opening. I swear if I didn't know they were men, I would never question that they were women. I don't know how they make themselves look so feminine, and I don't want to know! After about 1/2 an hour, we'd had enough, so we headed back to the library. We had to wake up early to drive down to Cagayan and catch a ferry to Camiguin Island. Stay tuned for Part Three...Camiguin and White Islands.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Happy Birthday, Jillian!

Jillian is 10 years-old all ready! I remember when I was almost ten and how excited I was to be in "double digits". It doesn't seem that long ago, and now my 3rd child is there. She'll be in fifth grade in the fall, definitely on her way to becoming a young woman. She loves to help me, no matter what I'm doing, which I really apprecite.

My pregnancy with Jillian was the easiest of all four; I was on bed-rest for only four weeks with her, the others were 8+ weeks. We lived in Palatine, IL (a suburb of Chicago) at the time and I was the Primary president in our ward. I really believe that I was blessed with extra endurance during that time since I was far from family and so busy with church. Two days before she was born, we were at a friend's house watching 4th of July fireworks and I was so afraid I was going to go into labor. The c-section was planned for July 6 and I was under strict orders to not go into labor before then. I did have lots of contractions that night, but I was able to hold out until the scheduled delivery. She was born July 6, 1999 at 9:06 AM. She was a very sweet baby, and she's still a very sweet girl.

This is right before we left for the hospital. I don't really look 8 1/2 months pregnant, do I? But I sure felt it! I was so ready to be off bedrest.

Jillian Morgan Van Aken, 6 lbs. 5 oz., 19 inches

Jillian learned to walk right on her 1st birthday. Love the tongue!

Jillian at 2 years-old. She still has her cute cheeks and sweet smile.

Philippine Adventure: Part One

We're home, safe, and mostly healthy. I'll let you know in a few days if we escaped bug free. I took over 1000 pictures on our trip. I still have to weed through them, but I really want to get started on posting. This will be a series of posts until I cover everything. We're going camping for a few days this week, so it will probably take a while for me to finish.

Day 1: Thursday, June 18
We left the house at 4:45 am to pick up Barb and Sid Sponsler, the Hooyer's neighbors who traveled with us. We all caught the 5:30 ferry, aiming at getting a 7:45 flight to San Francisco. (Since Dave Hooyer is a retired United pilot, we used his companion tickets and traveled stand-by on the flights from Seattle to SF and SF to Hong Kong.) Unfortunately, the lines at the airport were long and by the time we got checked in, we were too late to get the 7:45 flight. Our last chance at making the 1:00 flight to Hong Kong was getting the 9:45, which seven of the eight of us made. Dave ended up taking a later flight on Alaska, which put him in SF after the 1:00 departure for Hong Kong, but none of us made that flight, so it didn't really matter. It was very disappointing to miss the flight. I don't like uncertainty, so waiting to see if our names would be called was very frustrating. We made the most of it by enjoying our afternoon in SF. Carlyn, Barb, Kylie and I took the BART into China-town and pretended we were in Hong Kong. Never having been there, it wasn't hard for me to do! We even ate delicious Dim Sum for dinner. Sorry, Katie, I don't remember what they were called: some had shrimp, some had eggplant, some had tofu, some had pork, all were delicious!

Kylie and I outside the China-town gate in San Francisco.

Day 2: Friday, June 19
We woke up determined to have a positive attitude about making the flight. We said a prayer together for safe travel, which made all of us feel better. And we made the flight. Sid, Barb, Kylie and I even got seats in business class, which made the waiting well worth it! The seats recline all the way into beds, each person has their own entertainment center with movies, TV shows, music, & games, the food is good and served on real dishes with cold silverware, drinks are refilled constantly (as our seat-made took full advantage of...), all which made the 15 hour flight bearable.

When we arrived in Hong Kong, we had to rebook our flight to Manila, since we had missed our scheduled flight. We learned an expensive lesson not to make confirmed reservations when flying standby. Paying twice for flights and hotel rooms add up. I don't even know what time it was when we reached Manila. Stepping off the plane in Manila felt like stepping into a dog's mouth: hot, humid, heavy, and stinky. I never had a chance to be jet-lagged; I was exhausted by the time we got to the hotel and was able to sleep six hours and wake up in the morning somewhat ready to catch another flight to Cagayan de Oro on Mindanao.

Here's all the luggage from eight people, six of whom are spending the whole summer in the Philippines.

Day 3: Sunday, June 21
We lost most of Saturday due to the time difference (they're 15 hours ahead).

Carlyn's dad and brother, Mao, picked us up from the airport in Cagayan Sunday morning and drove us into town to go grocery shopping and eat lunch. Our first whiff of durian greeted us in their van. It smelled like overly powerful Pepto Bismol and we were promised the chance to try it later.
Driving up the mountain from Cagayan to Manolo Fortich was unlike anything I've ever experienced. I think they purposefully tear up the roads to create jobs repairing them. The road in the picture above doesn't show how bad they were. But it's a decent shot of the back of a jeepney, which is a very popular form of tranportation in the Philippines and is used to carry as many people as can squeeze in along with any kind of goods that will fit. The roads are usually two lanes, but the drivers treat them like both lanes go in the same direction and will pass each other at any time, even when there is a huge truck coming towards them. It's a bit like playing chicken: if you've got the guts to pass, go for it! Motorcyles (or hubel-hubels, as they're called) weave in and out of traffic and of course no one wears helmets or seat belts.

Most of the houses are very primitive. I kept thinking it would get better, but it didn't. There aren't "nicer" neighborhoods and "poorer" neighborhoods like we're used to in the U.S. Every once in a while, a house with a tile roof and stucco walls would appear from behind a walled enclosure, but not very often. I was starting to get really worried about where I was taking my daughter (and myself). Fortunately, Carlyn's family's home is one of the nicer ones in town.

On the right is the Dumotan's home, on the left are the stairs leading up to the Dumotan-Hooyer library.

The front half of the Dumotan's home,
and a view of the very front.
This is their kitchen, which was just added on when the Hooyers built the library two years ago.This is the "dirty kitchen", which might have been what they used before the addition. I'll have to check with Carlyn and see if that's true.The living room.The library. It's one of the biggest buildings in town, and by far the nicest.
Upstairs in the living quarters, the top two floors.

The bottom floor is the actual library.
Our beds were back by where Kylie is sitting. It fulfilled my childhood fantasy of being locked in a library at night and getting to spend the night amongst the books!

This is their neighbor's house, right on the other side of the wall, so you can see how the houses are all mixed together.